Tuesday, August 31, 2010

A Brief Introduction to French Indochina


French Indochina was an Indochinese Union formed due to the the colonialism of the French in South-East Asia. During colonization in this era, it is recognized that the French left the local rulers, the Emperors and Kings of the respective colonized countries, in power. But actually, these local rulers were only acting as figureheads, with majority of their influence and power over the natives still within the hands of the French. French Indochina was an Indochinese Union formed due to the colonialism of the French in South-East Asia.

The Indochinese Union consisted of
1. the Kingdom of Cambodia,
2. the Kingdom of Laos,
3. North Vietnam, also known as the Democratic Republic of Vietnam and,
4. South Vietnam, also known was the State of Vietnam.

Indochinese Union flag 

Map of French Indochina

After the defeat of the French in the battle of Dien Bien Phu in 1954, Indochina was finally dissolved and Laos, Cambodia, North Vietnam and South Vietnam were released into independence.

There were many reasons as to why these South-East Asian countries were targeted by the French to colonise. Many of these reasons had social, economical and political aspects to them.

In this travel guide, I will be taking you on a journey to share with you the experiences and insights I gained while visiting Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam. Hopefully, through the eyes of this travel guide, you will be able to see the changes that Indochina underwent after the French colonised parts of South-East Asia. More importantly, the rich cultures that these countries have.

KEEP READING!! :)

Monday, August 30, 2010

Cambodia

Cambodia is part of the French Indochina and when visiting this region, you will see a lot of rich history as well as signs of prosperity of the French.



We have to first understand WHY the French colonized Cambodia.

Firstly, Cambodia was weak and could serve as an excellent buffer zone between Cochin China and pro-British Siam. King Norodom of Cambodia also recognised that the French could protect his country and thus signed the treaty of protection.



Secondly, Cambodia is also a land route to the rich markets of China, allowing the French economical gain.

Thirdly, the colonizing of Cambodia helped the French advance in the competition with the British.

Lastly, the French was on a mission civilisatrice (civilising mission) and also wanted to promote economic development in colonial territories (mise en valeur).

Cambodia in my eyes can be said to be the epitome of the wealthiness of France, I was amazed how the French modernized the city of Phnom Penh, with paved roads everywhere, which were not present before.

I also took a walk around Cambodia's Royal Palace (begun by King Norodom in 1886). Although the buildings had distinct Cambodian features, French influence can be seen in the formal gardens which enhance the palace. There are also some European-style buildings on the grounds.





Even though I see all this modernity in Cambodia, I still noticed that there is a great deal of Cambodian natives who are uneducated. There are hardly any schools in the country!

However, I also enjoyed the historical sites that were not modernized by the French, the ruins of the ancient Khmer city and the temples at Angkor. The French did help to restore it after Siam returned Angkor to Cambodia. But the temples at Angkor still tell a story about the forefathers who built them.


The French also helped to revive the interest in traditional Cambodian arts and crafts. A Frenchman George Groslier designed the National Museum of Cambodia, showcasing traditional Cambodian arts and crafts.


Because of the revival instigated by the French, traditional Cambodian arts and crafts can still be appreciated today, bringing about a form of social continuity. Cambodian arts and crafts include textiles, stone carvings, weaving, silversmithing, ceramics, etc.



After French colonialism, the government in Cambodia changed. There is still a King in Cambodia, however he is merely a cultural symbol rather than a political leader as he does not carry much power. Cambodia is now governed by the Resident-General for Cambodia, appointed by France. The Resident-General held considerable power and the French perform the significant political activities and even decide on who should be King, even though the kings are merely figureheads. The French Resident-General's powers are close to absolute in matters of law, the police, taxation, budgets and  public works. Thus the monarchy from before colonialism barely remains, bringing about a political change in Cambodia.

The French also did not put any sophisticated legal system in place so not many lawyers and judges are qualified.

On my journey in Cambodia, I also noticed that the French focused largely on the production of agricultural products and extraction of primary materials for export. This can provide them with high profits. Taxes and other revenues are other sources of money to cover the bill for Indochina's administration and defense.

As mentioned earlier, many things in Cambodia displayed the French wealth. The French government supports the development of infrastructure in Cambodia, and started building infrastructure such as port facilities, roadways and railways, etc.

Public works projects are being carried out to expand transportation networks that would bring products to markets and allow French to move around the country for administrative and other purposes.

After an eventful day learning so many new things about Cambodia, I had my dinner where I sampled traditional Cambodian food and also the French Baguette introduced to Cambodia because of colonialism.

Amok, a Khmer curry dish

The French Baguette is usually eaten with pâté in Cambodia.

A satisfying dinner to a satisfying day!

Laos

I am embarking on another journey to another region in the French Indochina, Laos! In Laos, I did not notice a massive change as a result of French colonialism.



The French thought that the indigenous people of Laos were barbarians and thought that they, as white men, had the moral obligation to civilise them.

The French wanted firstly, to gain from the deposits of precious metals they believed Laos had.

Secondly, they wanted an inroad to China through the Mekong River.

Mekong River


Thirdly, France had a rivalry with Britain and they did not want Britain to take over Laos.

However, after taking over, they realised that most parts of the river were impenetrable and thus lost interest in Laos and did not give them much attention. As a result, there is little development seen in Laos after the French colonization.

As far as administration is concerned, the French directly administers most of Laos while some parts are indirectly controlled through the Kings. The colonial government has a few hundred French civil servants but the day to day issues are mostly taken care of by Vietnamese Civil Servants.

The French helped to bring social continuity to Laos. Through a group of French-educated Lao elites, the Lao language and literature was promoted and the first Lao-language Lao history books appeared in print. In recognition of the central educational role of Buddhism in Laos, efforts were also made to reorganise and give national character to the Lao Buddhist sangha through the establishment of Buddhist Institutes in Vientiane and Luang Prabang.

The intrusion of the French also brought about internal peace and reduced inter-tribal conflicts and because of the French colonialism, French gradually became the accepted language in administration and among the middle and upper classes in Lao society.

Since Laos is not providing good economic gains due to lack of resources and very less returns in agriculture, the French did not really spend money on improving the standards of living of the people of Laos. They also did not indulge in any construction of buildings, schools or hospitals.'

Laos was not a very important country for France, thus I could not observe any significant changes brought about by France. Vietnam was the main concern for France, and after France realised that Laos could not benefit them as well as they thought, they lost interest in Laos.

As there is less modernity in Laos, it gives me a chance to view more traditional buildings.


The Royal Palace Museum is constructed as King Sisavang Vong's palace. The building features a mixture of French beaux arts styles, where you can see the French influences, and traditional Lao motifs.


The Vat Sisaket Buddhist temple. It was built by King Setthathiratin in the city of Vientiane and houses around 6840 images of Lord Buddha.

From these buildings, I can experience the traditional Lao architecture as well as art, reflecting social continuity.


I also saw places obviously influenced by the French when I visited Fort Carnot. It is a small French fort which has two large watch towers and an amenities block including a kitchen and prison cell, two large garrison buildings and tunnels leading to external guardhouses.

Yet again it has come to the end of my day and time for dinner! For dinner, as usual I sampled the traditional Lao cuisine.


 Laab, a spicy mixture of meat/chicken, with a variable combination of herbs, greens and spices.


Sticky rice is a staple food for Lao people.

Similarly to the rest of the colonies in French Indochina, you can find French Baguettes everywhere, and also French restaurants are very popular.

Vietnam














































































































































































































































The key to understanding Indochina is 
Vietnam. Vietnam is an important part of the Indochina region. It is a long, thin, S-shaped country running for 2000 km between China and the Gulf of Tonkin in the north, to the South China Sea in the south; and Laos and Cambodia in the west. It was in this very place that the Indochinese nationalism and the struggle for independence from European colonial powers such as the French originated from and was largely led as well.

Vietnam: a long, thin, S-shaped country

Prior to the French colonialism, early before they were colonised by the French, Vietnam came under the Chinese rule. Hence, Vietnam was heavily dominated by the ideology of Confucianism and Taoism. These beliefs were ideally meant to formalise bonds of obedience and obligations towards the state, family and society. These were also seen as a way of life and a guiding principle toward a harmonious country. The good impacts of Confucianism on the Vietnamese could be seen through the loyalty and selflessness whilst defending themselves during the times of the French colonialism.


Why did France choose Vietnam to be one of its colonies? 
At that time, France faced stiff competition against other great European powers like Germany and Russia for economic and military superiority. Thus, to secure more strategic geographic positions to promote and improve France's international trade and capitalism, France decided to colonise Vietnam.
Secondly, Vietnam could not decide on what was best for the her country, whether to be isolated from the world by abiding strictly to Confucianism or to begin modernizing.
Thirdly, due to the lack of military technology to resist the new western invaders, Vietnamese leaders were left with no choice but to sign treaties with France. 
Fourthly, Vietnam was seen to have the capacity to feed millions of beyond its population. Its agricultural potential sparked great interest in many European countries to want to colonise them.
Lastly, it was seen as the 'White Man's Burden' by the French that they bring about civilisation to the inferiors of SEA.
Hence, this led to Napoleon III's order for his navy to invade Vietnam on July 1857.


So what happened when the French left Vietnam?
Vietnam was divided at the seventeenth parallel into North Vietnam(communist) and South Vietnam(democratic), kudos to French colonisation. Many people living in the North did not wish to live under the Communist regime and some, mainly highly notable intellectuals as well as Catholics, fled to the South to seek a better life. Besides the better and more well off people fleeing to South Vietnam, there were also peasants who did all they could to flee from the rule of communists who disrupted the traditional lives of the people. 

The splitting of Vietnam

Since being under the 'rule' of Confucianism, the Vietnamese had a high respect for education. It was essential to be well-educated in order to be able to climb to the top and hold high posts in office. Being under the French rule certainly did not change this Vietnamese mindset at all. However, a western system of modern education begin to develop in Vietnam. Despite the lack of teachers and teaching resources, Vietnamese schools made sure that the students were well-versed in Vietnamese history, language and literature.

 Also, Roman Catholicism began to be propagate widely in Vietnamese society. Most of the French who settled in Vietnam were concentrated around the Cochinchina area. Hence, when I passed by Saigon, which is one of the principle cities in Vietnam, it caught my attention that there were many Catholic churches around. Many of the Vietnamese, who once believed in Confucianism, have been converted into Roman Catholics. However, there are still temples that can be found in Vietnam.

 
Notre Dame Church, Saigon 

      
The ornate, pretty in pink, Tan Dinh Church, Saigon


A temple close to Dalat in the Vietnamese Highlands decorated with broken porcelain, old bottles, etc. "When there is a will, there a way."

Between 1954 and the 1960s after the French colonialism, South Vietnam began to receive a lot of monetary and humanitarian aid from United States of America. Of course, this was a part of USA's plan to limit the communists' influence in North Vietnam, with efforts to refrain this influence from spreading to South Vietnam. USA encouraged South Vietnam to develop economically, and at the same time urged countless social and political reforms. To put it simply, South Vietnam was definitely benefiting way more from the aftermath of French colonisation than North Vietnam was.


The French colonialism also led to a great economic collapse of Vietnam and the Vietnamese currency experienced a triple-digit inflation. Hence, when I was shopping around, intending to try out the Vietnamese cuisine, I almost could not keep track of how much I was spending because everything was really cheap and of course, I had to seize the opportunity! Here are some of the must-trys when you visit Vietnam:

Yummy vietnamese beef noodles, Pho

Springrolls!

Vietnamese baguettes (Yes, the baguettes that the French eat.)

Whilst walking around Vietnam, I noticed that the architectures of the building were mostly European-style administration. Even the house in which the president of Vietnam resides in showed great influences from the European culture and architecture. This is probably the residual effect that the French colonisation had on the Vietnamese people, even after losing their colonial powers they had in Vietnam.

Presidential house in Vietnam, Hanoi

Close-up view of Ho Chi Minh City’s city hall roof line shows elements of early 1900s French colonial architecture and statuary


Ah, what a fruitful trip it was to Vietnam. I hope that you readers will be able to visit Vietnam soon! :)